Print and finish technology for a Yerevan Fashion Week kit
Paper choices dominate the printed artefacts in the room, and the choice is driven by what the kit has to survive in transit. A coated 200 gsm silk or satin stock is the standard for the showroom lookbook because the photographic plates print cleanly on a sealed surface and the stock folds without cracking along the spine. An uncoated 120 gsm bond is the standard for the press card because it accepts a fountain pen and a soft pencil without bleed-through, which matters when the press card doubles as a working document. A 350 gsm uncoated cover stock is the standard for the buyer folder cover because it debosses cleanly and it carries a four-colour litho print at line-screen resolutions that hold detail on a flat surface. Where a foil or a debossed mark is part of the brand identity, the cover stock is upgraded to a cotton-rich 350 gsm with a vellum finish, which is the working baseline for a premium fashion-house kit.
Apparel decoration in the backstage kit follows a different rule set because the pieces are washed and worn, not handled once and discarded. Discharge water-based screen print is the standard for the staff tee and the long-sleeve crew because the print sits inside the fibre rather than on top, the hand is soft against the skin during a long styling session, and the colour does not crack after a dozen wash cycles. For a one-off press drop where the design is photographic, direct-to-garment pigment print is the right answer, because a four-colour screen setup on a 60-piece run is not economical and the soft hand of the DTG print reads better against a premium cotton blank. Embroidered marks are reserved for outerwear and for heavier pieces (the coach jacket, the fatigue overshirt, the backstage robe) where the embroidered surface reads as part of the garment rather than as decoration.
Accessories in the press box and the showroom kit follow a third rule set, because the size of the mark relative to the surface area and the wear profile of the piece drive the finish. A printed cotton ribbon, a debossed leather patch and a foil-stamped box are the standard reference set; embroidered accessories are reserved for pieces where the stitched mark complements the material (canvas totes, denim carriers, structured cotton pouches). Hot-foil stamping holds detail better than debossing at small mark sizes, and a registered foil is the right answer for any monogram line or any small legend that has to reproduce at a thumbnail size on the press card.
The colour-separation question runs through every print line in the kit. Coated paper holds four-colour process and spot colour alike, and a Pantone reference can be hit reliably on a coated sheet at Delta-E 1 to 2 from the named standard. Uncoated paper holds four-colour process, but spot colours shift to a wider Delta-E tolerance because the uncoated stock absorbs the ink unevenly. Fabric decoration has the third colour profile: discharge ink mixes to a Pantone reference within a Delta-E of roughly 2 to 3, plastisol ink within a Delta-E of 1 to 2, and DTG process colour is an approximation rather than a hit. For brand identities with a single named corporate colour (a specific brand red, a specific collection accent) the print specification usually defaults to spot Pantone on the paper lines and to a mixed discharge or plastisol on the apparel lines, with the DTG line reserved for photographic content where process colour is acceptable.
Sampling order is the practical closing of the print specification. A paper strike on every coated stock and every uncoated stock, a printed and laminated badge sample, a discharge-printed strike on the actual garment blank, a debossed or hot-foiled strike on the cover stock of the folder and a single unbranded prototype of every accessory in the kit is the working baseline. Sample turnaround on the full baseline is 7 to 10 working days from approved artwork, which is why the brief should fix the artwork at vector and the paper and fabric choice at the start of the production window rather than mid-window, where a stock change can set the calendar back by a full week.