Plastisol ink: petroleum-based PVC ink. Most durable (50+ cycles), opaque on dark fabric, fast curing (160°C × 60s). Industry standard for high-volume silkscreen. Limitations: not biodegradable, contains phthalates (regulated), thicker hand feel.
Water-based ink: pigment in water carrier, biodegradable. Soft hand feel (ink absorbs into fabric, doesn't sit on top). Wash durability 30-50 cycles. Slower curing (150°C × 90s).
Discharge ink: water-based with bleaching agent for vibrant prints on dark fabric. Special application.
ESG choice: Water-based wins for sustainability messaging, GOTS-organic-cotton compatibility, EU Green Deal alignment.
Durability choice: Plastisol wins for 50+ wash cycle programs.
Cost: comparable per unit. Water-based slightly higher (10-15%) due to slower curing throughput.
Decision: Premium ESG-aligned brands → Water-based. High-volume cost-optimized → Plastisol. Mixed approach: water-based for premium SKUs, plastisol for commodity volume.
Most top-tier brands (Patagonia, IKEA, Nike sustainability lines) have moved to water-based. Mid-tier still use plastisol.